Vancouver Island might be small—it’s only 285 miles long by 50 miles wide—but really it’s a perfect bite-sized piece of the best nature that British Columbia has to offer: snowy mountain ranges, 2,137 miles of raw, stunning beaches, old growth forests and wilderness parks, and unlimited wildlife viewing. The island’s temperate, snow-free climate makes it a wonderful escape any time of the year. Throw in an eclectic mix of charming small cities, towns and villages with all that scenery, and there’s no better place for a road trip. Pack your suitcase (don’t forget your binoculars) and get ready to experience nature at its finest.
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Storm watching, Tofino | Photo: Christopher Pouget
Start in the Queen’s City
The southern tip of the island is where Victoria is located and holds about half of Vancouver Island’s 800,000 or so population. Not only is this the island’s largest city, but it’s also the capital of British Columbia, so no trip to the island would be complete without a visit.
Photo: Fairmont Empress Hotel
For a trip down history-lane, stay at the luxurious Fairmont Empress, opened in 1908 (and yes, the Queen often stays here). With its location right on the inner harbor, the Empress makes the perfect base to explore nearby tourist attractions, like the BC Parliament buildings, the Royal BC Museum (founded in 1886, in the early days of colonial settlement) and Chinatown, the second oldest in North America, after San Francisco. Just up the street is the 190-acre Beacon Hill Park, where you will find a kids’ petting zoo, ponds, and lush grasslands, which culminate on the rugged coastline where, on a clear day, you can see across the strait to Washington.
To learn a lot about the city in a short amount of time, book with one of the local tour companies, like Off the Eaten Track, a foodie tour company that loves to showcase the local cuisine that makes Canada special, or see iconic landmarks via a cycling tour operator like The Pedaler. We recommend the Castles, Hoods & Legends tour.
Orca | Photo: Destination BC
For your first taste of Vancouver Island nature and wildlife, one activity you won’t want to miss is a tour with an operator like Prince of Whales, to explore the local waters for views of whales, harbor seals, sea lions and dolphins.
Head to the Riviera Beach Land
Tigh-Na-Mara: Photo courtesy of the resort
Next, make a two-hour drive up island to the charming coastal towns of Parksville and Qualicum Beach, an area that has been called Canada’s Riviera. Here you will find long sandy beaches with some of the warmest ocean swimming waters in Canada, picture post-card views and beachside resorts like the Tigh-Na-Mara.
Photo: Parksville Qualicum Beach Tourism Association
This is the protected side of the island, so the water is calmer here, making it the perfect place to get out on a kayak. Local companies, like Adventuress Sea Tours rent kayaks and lead tours where you’re likely to see abundant sea life as you paddle past white-shell beaches and forests to spot sea lions and, if you’re lucky, orcas.
If beachcombing is your thing, a walk on the 2.5-mile long Qualicum Beach is a must. When the tide is out, it turns into a huge sandy tidal flatland where you can find sea treasures like sand dollars, starfish, and colorful shells.
To learn more about the local wildlife, visit the North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre, a safe haven for wild animals like bears, owls, cougars and eagles that are ill, hurt or orphaned.
Nearby provincial parks offer an abundance of hiking trails, but if you want to go deeper to explore fossils and underground mysteries, book a tour at the Horne Lake Caves & Outdoor Centre.
Continue to the Island’s Wild Side
Goats at Coombs Old Country Market | Photo: Parksville Qualicum Beach Tourism Association
Get back on the highway for a 3-hour winding drive to the Pacific side of the island. But first, on the way out of town prepare to stop when you see the sign for the Coombs Old Country Market. Originally one of the island’s many roadside fruit stands, this market has now turned into a food emporium. But what’s really cool is the herd of goats that you can see grazing on sod on the roof of the market.
Cathedral Grove | Photo: Destination BC-Sean Scott
Further down the road, take yourself to church—the nature church that is—with a stop at Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park, where you can hike mossy trails, soak in fresh rain forest air and gaze in reverent awe at the stands of giant Douglas fir trees, some of which are more than 800 years old.
The next part of this road trip will blow your mind—so prepare to take several breaks for photos and to explore the rugged beauty of the rain forest. Watch for wildlife on the road—especially black bears—there’s a high density on the island.
The last stretch of the highway to Tofino is a coastal drive through Pacific Rim National Park and stops at the windswept beaches like Long Beach—the longest sand beach on the west coast of the island—are a must. This is just one beach popular with surfers.
You will see numerous turn-off signs for hiking trails and most are relatively easy and not too long, so get out and stretch your legs. If you’re a boardwalk lover, catch the Rainforest Trail, two loop trails in the Pacific Rim National Park, through lush, mossy old-growth rain forest.
Hangout in Surfer’s Paradise
Clayoquot Sound Aerial | Photo: Stuart May
You’ll likely be surprised when you reach the tiny village of Tofino (population roughly 2,000) in Clayoquot Sound—the end of the road. In the 60s, Tofino was a hippie haven which saw the beginning of the surf culture that continues today, putting it on the map as Canada’s biggest and most popular surf hangout. Despite its smallness, Tofino has cosmopolitan offerings like a distillery, a brewery and award-winning restaurants.
Clayoquot Sound has been home to the First Nations people for 10,000 years or more, so to learn more about the traditional ways of life and history, join a Nuu-chah-nulth guide for a canoe tour with T’ashii Paddle Tours. For some bear watching, Jamie’s Whaling Station will take you out on a boat, the optimum way to see black bears foraging for their lunch in low tide.
Photo: Long Beach Lodge Resort
When it’s time to put up your feet, check in to the Long Beach Lodge Resort, which boasts direct access to Cox Bay. For some “storm watching”, book between November and March, to catch this dramatic Pacific-rim coastal phenomenon. Because there is no land mass between here and Japan, wind builds up over the distance and can roll in waves up to 20 feet in height. Put on some rain gear (provided by the hotel), get onto the beach, and feel the sea spray on your face. Majestic nature at its finest.
Kate Robertson
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Wax museum has been closed for over a decade.