Back when Steinbeck was a local, this waterfront stretch of Monterey was just called Ocean View Avenue. Eighty-plus years and a Pulitzer later, the famous author might still recognize the old place.
Search for a fish-packing industry on Cannery Row these days and you’ll come up empty handed. Lightly grilled and served with a crisp Monterey chardonnay is how they do sardines here now.
The neighborhood’s once-mighty canning plants now house craft brewing companies and cute stores. And if you’ve a hankering for a hint of Cannery Row’s 19th-century harborside glory days, it’s well disguised too, under the pretty skirts of smartly restored Victorian hotels and quaint boutique inns.
Don’t lose heart. They might have taken the canning industry out of Cannery Row, but its character is impossible to remove. John Steinbeck set his novel Cannery Row here and you can’t miss his presence in these parts. Pay your respects to the Pulitzer-Prize winner and amateur marine biologist with a grand tour of Monterey Bay Aquarium, or at least a ramble around the rock pools of San Carlos Beach.
Wander the waterfront and keep the pace sedate. You don’t want to lose sight of the ocean for a second. The once overfished waters of Monterey Bay now make up the Edward F. Ricketts State Marine Conservation Area, and prime whale-spotting territory from April to December. If you miss these creatures breaching offshore, console yourself with some eco-conscious sea kayaking or derring-do on a stand-up paddleboard.
Gulp down that sea air and work up an appetite so you can tackle Cannery Row’s abundance of restaurants. Canned isn’t a word you hear much around here nowadays; fresh with a side order of ocean views is definitely the dish of the day. Swap your sardines for ceviche, or ask for a fish sandwich on local baked bread. If you’re feeling thirsty, head to one of the beautiful vintage Cannery Row bars to sample an impressive range of international beers.