South west of Monterey, this one-time enclave of artists, writers, and poets calls itself a city, but lives like a village by the sea.
Officially known as Carmel-by-the-Sea, you can call this beachy, bohemian, and upscale little Californian anything, except Carmel. Otherwise, you might as well have the word “tourist” tattooed across your forehead.
But even with the correct name imprinted in your mind, looking exactly like a local is a tricky stunt to pull off in Carmel; one of the city’s many eccentricities is a refusal to use street numbers. Hotels give directions that run to pages and, apart from that, you’re on your own.
Play it by ear in Carmel Village and let over 100 art galleries guide you round. Or pick up a wine-tasting passport with handy maps and take that route instead. Stroll along Ocean Avenue at the weekend to enjoy a stargazing experience: many movie greats make their home in Carmel.
When you’re done with the dazzle, wind your way west down Ocean Avenue toward the sea. Fortunes rise and fall like the breeze in this part of the world, but Carmel Beach is a constant. Walk on the long, broad sands. Listen to the crashing waves. Now you know why Carmel sits so comfortably in the top 10 list of must-see U.S. destinations.
There’s nothing like the sea air to work up an appetite. Take the abundance of French restaurants with a little salt here. Like the local wines, the names might be European, but the ingredients are home grown, distinctly Californian, and likely sourced within a 10-mile radius of your table. In certain quarters, even dogs are treated to the finer things in life; take your pet to the grooming salons for high-end pampering.
One thing you won’t find in this chic little city is enormous resorts, instead think boutique guesthouses, heritage inns, and historic hotels. Imagine them tucked into forested gardens and along sleepy, treelined streets. You wouldn’t have it any other way.