Eric Stoen has traveled to India three times now, and is heading back this month with his 10-year-old son. We asked him why India is one of his favorite countries, and what his five must-see places are.
I love India! I love the colors, with the reds, oranges and yellows of women’s saris contrasted against the muted tones of the desert. I love the crazy roads, all of the trucks with Horn Please signs on the back, and all of the drivers who comply with that request. I love walking past parks and watching amateur cricket matches. I love the stunning forts. I love the spirituality, with Ganesha ever present. I love camel silhouettes in the desert at sunset. And I love the food. India’s probably the only place where I can travel for four weeks and never get even a little tired of the cuisine.
Sunset in India’s Thar Desert
Americans need visas to visit, but it’s a fairly quick process to apply for a $75, 60-day, double-entry visa online. Or for only another $25 ($100 total) you can mail off your passport for a 10-year visa. I have the 10-year visa, but for this trip I went for the easy 60-day visa for my son. I’ll regret it when he says he wants to go back in a year!
Here are my five favorite places in India. And no, I haven’t been everywhere yet!
Varanasi
I included Varanasi in my 10 Cities That Should Be on Everyone’s Bucket List. It’s an amazing destination, situated along the sacred Ganges river, with a steady stream of pilgrims coming to bathe in the river, Sadus (holy men) a constant presence, and processions of people bringing loved ones to be cremated at the city’s ghats. Wake up early and walk along the river, or take a boat at sunset. And don’t miss the Ganga Aarti, a nightly fire ceremony at holy Dashashwamedh Ghat.
Varanasi just before sunrise
Pilgrims coming to bathe in the Ganges
The Taj Mahal, Agra
Normally I would think it’s cliched to include a famous building on a list of must-see places. But Agra‘s Taj Mahal is my favorite building in the world, with spectacular design and a scale that you can’t comprehend until you’re standing in front of it. And its white Makrana marble is always pristine. Walk inside to see the ceremonial tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan (they’re actually entombed in a room below there), but spend most of your time walking around the perimeter and through the Mosque, admiring the architecture. I love being there at sunrise, but sunset is also a good time to visit. Just avoid the middle of the day when it’s more crowded – and a lot hotter! My tips on visiting in the morning are here: How to Have the World’s Great Sites to Yourself.
The Taj Mahal in the early morning, just after the gates opened
The eastern side of the Taj Mahal at sunrise
Jaisalmer
Jaipur, with the Amer Fort and the Hawa Mahal, and the blue city of Jodhpur, with its Mehrangarh Fort, are the popular stops in Rajasthan, but I’ve always preferred far-smaller Jaisalmer. I love walking around town at sunrise, as well as exploring Jaisalmer Fort and its Jain Temple. And nearby Gadsisar Lake is picturesque and worth a stop. And then there’s the Thar Desert, surrounding the city and crossing into Pakistan. The desert is perfect for camel safaris and camping, and there are numerous festivals. The Desert Festival every February is particularly fun.
Overlooking Jaisalmer and the Jaisalmer Fort at sunset
At the Jaisalmer Desert Festival
Pushkar (for the Pushkar Camel Fair)
The small town of Pushkar, also in Rajasthan, is especially noteworthy once a year when Camel Fair takes place. Hundreds of thousands of people come from all over India to buy and sell livestock – primarily camels. Camels aren’t the world’s most pleasant animals, but it’s absolutely amazing to be among 30,000+ of them as buyers evaluate every element of the animals and sellers try to get top price. And a lot of the camels are decorated, which makes it even more entertaining. I’m pretty sure my local zoning ordinances prohibit camels, so I didn’t purchase any, but I loved being in that very-different world for a few days! Highly recommended as a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
At the Pushkar Camel Fair
Always look at the teeth!
Mumbai
Mumbai is India’s largest city – which means there’s a lot to do and see, and also a lot of traffic! I love it as a contrast to the far-smaller desert cities. The markets are alive (don’t miss Crawford Market), there’s always cricket in the parks, and the slums are amazing to walk through – vast areas of yes, poverty, but also the energy of everyone working hard to support their families, primarily in recycling, textiles and ceramics. Visit Dhobi Ghat to see laundry being done outdoors in the traditional fashion (far more interesting than that sounds in writing!), and don’t miss Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Railway Station – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And then there’s Gandhi’s house, and the early morning fish deliveries at Sassoon Docks and so much more!
A harbor in Mumbai
Dhobis washing clothes and sheets in a Mumbai ghat
Where To Stay
I’ve generally stayed at small, inexpensive lodges throughout India. I always try to choose the best location for walking around at sunrise, and walking to get dinner in the evening. Travelocity is a great resource for finding the perfect place to stay wherever you’re going. But two properties have stood out, and I highly recommend them both!
The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai is iconic, and perfectly-located, just across the street from the Gateway of India. A Palace Wing room is worth every Rupee – one of my favorite places in the world to splurge! We’ll be staying there again this month.
The view from my room at Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace
And in Jaisalmer, or rather just outside Jaisalmer, is Suryagarh, a literal palace in the desert. When we were there, it was decorated for a wedding and was absolutely gorgeous. Add in the setting and amazing rooms and it’s one of my favorite hotels anywhere. Book it now! And if you decide to get married there, please invite me!
At Suryagarh. Yes that’s a musician in the window!
Eric Stoen
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