Okay, so maybe Warsaw isn’t at the top of your vacation bucket list. But there are plenty of reasons to break free from the crowded Paris–London–Rome tourism circuit that many Americans traverse when visiting Europe. With its ever-growing slate of cafes, bars, and underground nightlife, it’s been compared to Prague and Berlin, but like most things in life, Warsaw’s got an identity of its own. Go because you love design, or because your grandmother used to stuff you silly with pierogi, or even just because you’d like to see Poland’s capital city before its reputation starts proceeding it. No matter what, you’re bound to find something to enjoy.
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Milk Bars
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Start your tour of the city with a taste of traditional Poland. Milk Bars (“or bar mleczny”) are Polish restaurants which operate like low-cost cafeterias. (Expect to place your own order, pick up your own food, and bus your own table.) They’re also ground zero for all your borscht (sour beetroot), pierogi (dumplings), and placki ziemniaczane (potato pancake) needs. Basically, leaving hungry is not an option.) Substitutions are generally frowned upon, which means a lot of options are off-limits to vegetarians. But thanks to the newly-opened Wegetariański Bar Mleczny in the city center, even those who keep meat-free can get in on the action.
But Wait … More Food
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Poland’s food offerings aren’t just about cabbage and potatoes (no shade here—the stuff is flipping delicious). As a cosmopolitan capital city, Warsaw’s deep bench of restaurants represent a variety of tastes and interests. (And yes—Uber Eats is also alive and well—just in case you’re not in the mood to leave your hotel room.) Start by grabbing hummus and beers at Beirut, over-the-top “American Style” pancakes at Mr. Pancake, or green-heavy bowls at Bar Pacyfik (pictured above). Recently, food halls have become increasingly popular—particularly during the winter. If you’re looking for eats on the weekend, try Hala Gwardii, a former boxing ring turned food venue, known for its abundant vegetarian and vegan options. Hala Koszyki, open every day, has been praised both for its sophisticated design (Art nouveau interior! Daily curated theme music!) and a clutch of high-end eateries.
Old Town (and Pączkis)
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Many residents will tell you that Old Town is overly touristy. Or that it’s a fabrication. Yeah, so? Peeking into this neighborhood will give you a good idea of what the city looked like before it was demolished during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. (Spoiler alert: The word “fairytale” might come to mind.) But after you’ve soaked in historical perspective there’s really not much to see—unless you really like buskers playing pop hits on the xylophone. Grab a rose-jelly filled Polish doughnut (paczki) at Pączek w Maśle, and then keep moving.
Get High (up) at Palace of Culture
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Okay, you’re noticing a theme by now—Warsaw is a gut-bustlingly great place for food. And by now, if you’re following this guide step-by-step, your gut might actually be busting at this point. While you’re waiting for your next meal, pay a visit to the Palace of Culture. Originally a gift from Stalin to the Polish people, the hulking monument has since been repurposed, with bars, concert venues, restaurants and meeting halls filling the space. For the ultimate bird’s eye view, ride up all 231 meters and gaze down upon Warsaw’s crazy-quilt layout. (Pro tip: Time-lapse videos look really cool from this angle. )
Savior Square
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Savior Square earned its nickname “hipster square” thanks to some of the city’s most forward-thinking cafes, including the French-themed Charlotte, Matcha Tea House, and Karma. But the main course here is the chance to watch and be watched while sipping prosecco or coffee on the plentiful lounge chairs.
Design Stores
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Warsaw may be one of the most unsung design capitals of Europe. For a starter course, stop into Pan tu nie stał, a clothing line that repurposes traditional communist-era designs into playful shirts, dresses, socks, and houseware. (Don’t forget to pose with the oversized hairy legs sporting both sandals and socks.)
The Neon Museum
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Until Poland achieved freedom from communist forces in the early 90s, art was, understandably policed—save for neon signs, which the regime saw as a way to advertise their strength to the West. Although many of these signs were discarded in the aftermath, thanks to a conservatory effort by photographer Ilona Karwinska and her husband David S. Hill, many are now on display at Soho Factory in Warsaw’s Praga neighborhood. More than just an Instagram op (although certainly it’s one of the city’s best), for a modest entry fee you can wander the glowing room, enjoy the hypnotic hum, and take a deep dive into the city’s secretly rebellious past.
Chopin in the Park
The famous piano man (not Billy Joel—the other one) called Warsaw home. That fact gets celebrated every summer with Chopin in the Park, a free event, now in its 59th year happening every Sunday at noon and 4 p.m. Sit in the benches surrounding the Chopin statue in Warsaw’s University Botanical Gardens, and allow some of the composers most famous works to wash over you. Then take your newfound chill for a stroll in the nearby Łazienki Park, where you can spot the resident peacocks (themselves, ambassadors of chill).
Go Down by the River
Photo courtesy of Helen Boast
Thanks to recent renovations, the banks of Warsaw’s Vistula are the place to be. Walk, jog, or bike the three mile-stretch along the Warsaw bank (the Praga side is less developed—but that’s likely to change) and stop to take in the view at any number of venues—including Plac Zabaw and everyone’s favorite bar on the river, BarKa (pictured). Thanks to recently relaxed drinking laws around the river, you can even BYOB and enjoy them on the large concrete steps. On warm evenings, expect to be joined by hundreds of your best friends as the entire area becomes one large party.
Relax, in Style
A building with quite the turbulent history (housed in a nineteenth-century structure, it was once a secret meeting place among Polish youth, an embassy under Soviet rule and offices for Nazi Germany in the ’40s), the current occupants of five-star H15 Boutique Hotel are stylish travelers on the move. The atrium lobby is gorgeous, and then there’s the 47 apartment-style guestrooms which maintain a fine balancing act of being both bohemian and luxurious at the same time. The dining room at restaurant Signature still maintains the Soviet-era hammer and sickle as part of its decor, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s also among Warsaw’s Michelin-recommended eateries.
Laura Studarus
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