When you envision a vacation that’s tropical and exotic, but affordable and close to home, your mind probably doesn’t wander to Colombia—but it should. In particular, Cartagena de Indias, the jewel of Colombia’s Caribbean crown, provides a spectacular bang for your travel buck. With nonstop flights from cities like Fort Lauderdale and New York, Cartagena is easier to reach than ever.
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Cartagena 101
Cartagena is the perfect place to pass a week (or longer), whether you stick to the cobbled streets of its colonial walled city, explore modern neighborhoods like Bocagrande and Getsemani or venture further outward, such as to the paradise-like Isla de Barú, or forlorn Tayrona National Park. When you arrive in town, head straight inside Cartagena’s walled city, home to one of the dozens of boutique properties like Bastion Luxury Hotel and Hotel Boutique Casa del Coliseo that have sprung up over the past decade. Enjoy a quiet moment on your hotel’s terrace, or head to Café del Mar, where you can watch the sun sink into the Caribbean with a cocktail and live music. For an evening with an inferior view but superior food, head to Plaza Santo Domingo and dine al fresco at one of its celebrated eateries.
Photo courtesy of Robert Schrader
The next morning, get lost in the Old City’s serpentine streets, stopping at lively plazas like Adana, Bolivar, Las Coches and Trinidad, where you can buy fresh fruit, practice your español with locals or catch a live dance performance. Admire landmarks like the sunburst-hued Cartagena Cathedral, or shop the fresh produce (and fake flower) selections at Mercado Bazurto.
Dive Deeper
View from Castillo San Felipe de Barajas | Photo courtesy of Robert Schrader
Get a taxi or Uber to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, whose observation deck affords the perfect panorama of Cartagena’s colonial center as the sky fluoresces to signal the end of the day. Just beyond the walls of the old town, there are some unfamiliar horizons, as well. These are the neighborhoods of bohemian Getsemani and high-rise filled Bocagrande, which is sometimes known as the “Miami of Colombia.”
Balconies in Getsemani | Photo courtesy of Robert Schrader
Spend a day, two, (or even three) getting to know these lesser visited parts of the city. While Getsemani features similar architecture to what you’ll find inside the walled city, it has a bit less polish and more graffiti. Upmarket Bocagrande is where the upper crust of Cartagena hangs out. Resek Bar Club is best for rubbing shoulders with locals, while Bar Capilla del Mar positions you right on the oceanfront.
Beaches, Barranquilla and Beyond
Mudbath at Totumo Volcano | Photo courtesy of Robert Schrader
If Cartagena is where your trip to Colombia begins and ends, follow up your exploration of the city-proper with a day trip to somewhere nearby. If it’s beach time you’re seeking, head to Boguedita port and get a public speed boat to Isla de Barú, which is home to the aptly-named Playa Blanca. If hot, brown water of the soothing variety is more your jam, hire a taxi to take you to Volcan Totumo, where you can enjoy a mud bath with a view.
Tayrona National Park | Photo courtesy of Robert Schrader
Cartagena can also be the beginning of a bigger trip to Colombia. Travel north and eastward along the Caribbean coast toward the city of Santa Marta, where you’ll find mythical Tayrona National Park and diving hot spot Taganga. Along the way you’ll pass through Barranquilla—Shakira’s hometown! Alternatively, take a domestic flight from Cartegena to the dozen of destinations you can reach using Colombia’s local airlines such as festive Cali or the coffee plantations surrounding Medellín.
The Bottom Line
Cartagena might not be a Caribbean getaway you’ve previously considered, but it’s definitely the one you picture in your dreams. With a centuries-old, walled center, outlying districts that are equal parts bohemian and chic, and a list of day trips and excursions that goes on for as long as the city’s sunsets, Cartagena manages to be both convenient and castaway, exotic and inviting at the same time.
Robert Schrader
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