5 Days in Berlin for Families

Particularly in summer, when the city’s at its most creative and carefree, it can be easy to forget that Berlin’s a functioning capital city and not a sprawling playground. Fortunately, that attitude’s a little more forgivable when you have kids in tow! Do it right and you shouldn’t find yourselves falling back on theme parks and Pizza Hut.

Day 1

Start by seeing the sights in an East German-era Trabant. The kids will love the Trabi Safari’s convoy of old-fashioned cars even if they’ve no interest in the landmarks themselves. Then consider having lunch at Rausch. The chocolatier has its own restaurant that incorporates cocoa into the dishes. The food is fairly grown-up though, with nothing approaching a children’s menu, so if you’re with younger kids, then head there for dessert after Chinese food at Jolly.

Both restaurants are just a short walk from Museum Island.

Kids will likely find most of the institutions there quite dry, but the gargantuan exhibits at the Pergamon Museum will take the whole family’s breath away! (It’s also the quickest museum to get through.) Afterwards, head to Schwarzwaldstuben for good, affordable German food. Again, there’s no children’s menu here, but even the pickiest kids won’t turn their noses up at the selection of Flammkuchen (German pizza).

Day 2

Take a Reederei Riedel boat tour. If the young ones have the attention span for it, book the 3-hour ‘Bridge Tour’ from the dock at Hallesches Tor station. Beginning and ending on the Landwehr Canal, it covers most of Berlin’s most sight-speckled waterways, finishing just a short distance from Brachvogel. There’ll be no tedious wait for your food at this canal-side restaurant. There’s a playground for the kids, a beer garden for the adults, and mini-golf for the whole family.

You’re then just a U-Bahn stop away from the Museum of Technology. It’s home to more historic machines than you can shake a gear stick at, but if you fancy something a little more hands on, check out its sister museum, the Spectrum Science Center, next door. Both close at 6 p.m., so take a walk through the Elise-Tilse-Park across the road to check out the ruins of the old Anhalter Bahnhof.

The Steakhouse Asador around the corner has a good children’s menu, but if you had enough of meat and potatoes at Brachvogel earlier, head back to the canal for Greek food at Taverna Athena.

Day 3

The Berlin Zoological Garden is one of the best zoos in the world, boasting elegant architecture and landscaping to complement its 1,500 species. The breathtaking exhibits at its neighboring aquarium are a must, too, so grab a family combi-ticket for both attractions and spend the whole day there. Rather than visit one of the on-site restaurants, pack a lunch (there is a Kaisers supermarket nearby) or else enjoy the view from Neni – a Middle Eastern-Mediterranean restaurant on the 10^th floor of Budapester Strasse’s Bikinihaus.

Day 4

Head to the Prinzessinengӓrten by Moritzplatz station. This community garden sprung up on a disused scrap of land in 2009 and often hosts events and workshops (sometimes in English) as well as markets. Even on quieter days, it’s still a wonderful place to grab a hot meal and a tea or smoothie, especially if you like your ingredients locally sourced.

Head north now to give the kids a chance to play somewhere unique. Rather than hopping straight on the U-Bahn though, consider taking the scenic route via Oranienplatz, then head up to the promenade that used to be the Luisenstadt Canal, passing the dainty Indian Well on the way to the Engelbecken (Angel’s Pool) and St. Michael’s Church. Then, veer left towards the Mӓrkisches Museum and check out the bear-pit out front.

Berlin has two great hands-on kids’ museums where younger children can learn and play. Get on the U8 train from Jannowitzbrücke for the excellent Labyrinth Kindermuseum in Wedding, or catch the U2 from Mӓrkisches Museum station for MACHmit!, located in a converted church in Prenzlauerberg. The latter is also near the brilliant Kolle 37 – a playground under continuous construction by the kids themselves, founded on a philosophy that’s very much pro bumps and bruises!

Since you’re in the former East, try the Russian food at Pasternak, situated beneath an historic water tower.

Day 5

Ever had maple syrup on your pizza? Order a huge ‘Canadian’ pie at Ron Telesky’s. When you’re done, get the leftovers boxed up and head northeast on the U7 from Hermannplatz station to Zitadelle. This huge fortress is situated in the sleepy suburb of Spandau, where the Spree and Havel rivers meet, and is as much a cultural site as an historical one. It’s definitely worth checking if your visit coincides with any special events or festivals. Family tickets are a steal at €10, and don’t forget to check out the bat cellar!

While you’re in Spandau, make the most of its scenery by dining at Stilbruch on the tranquil river island of Eiswerder (though Kapitӓns Kajüte better caters to smaller appetites and vegetarians). Or for something even more memorable, book your place at a medieval feast within the citadel itself.

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