Navigate / search

Clotilde Dusoulier’s Edible Adventures in Montmartre

Join us in welcoming to The Window Seat the lovely Clotilde Dusoulier, author and celebrated Parisian blogger behind Chocolate & Zucchini. Her delicious guest blog will tempt you with an insider’s look at Paris.

 

I’ve lived in Montmartre for over five years, and if I’d been paid one centime for every time I’ve directed visitors to the Sacré-Coeur or the Moulin Rouge, I could afford to stay in bed eating chocolate for the rest of my life.

But I worry: once they reach those landmarks, if they get hungry, will they know where to go? Tourist traps lie in wait all over the hill, but Montmartre is a very residential area and locals eat there, too, so there is plenty of good food to be found if you know where to look. Here are a few favorites.

Coquelicot
This bakery makes what I think is the best baguette in Paris, a free-form beauty called “la piccola,” and their chouquettes (sugar puffs) are first-rate. You can sit inside or outside to enjoy a breakfast of café au lait and buttered tartines, or a light lunch of salads and omelets.

24 rue des Abbesses in the 18th, +33 (0)1 46 06 18 77. Métro: Abbesses.

Rue des Abbesses + Rue Lepic
While in Montmartre, take a stroll along those two rues commerçantes, i.e. market streets that offer a high concentration of food shops – bakeries, butcher shops, fish markets, cheese shops, wine shops, charcuteries, tea and spice shops – as well as cafés with terraces, where you can sit and relax before or after running your errands.

Start from Place des Abbesses, walk up Rue des Abbesses, and turn left into the lower part of Rue Lepic. Don’t miss La Cave des Abbesses (a wine shop at 43 rue des Abbesses), Chicken Family (a rotisserie at 57 rue des Abbesses), or La Fromagerie Lepic (a cheese shop at 20 rue Lepic).

Chéri Bibi
Located at the foot of the Sacré Cœur, this restaurant serves a mix of French comfort food and travel-inspired dishes to a hip local crowd. The dining room is furnished with flea market finds, and the wine list focuses on artisan vintners.

15 rue André del Sarte in the 18th, +33 (0)1 42 54 88 96. Métro: Anvers.

~~~
Author Bio
Born and raised in Paris, Clotilde Dusoulier is the 28-year-old Frenchwoman behind the award-winning food blog Chocolate & Zucchini and the author of the same-name cookbook (Broadway Books, 2007). In her new book, CLOTILDE’S EDIBLE ADVENTURES IN PARIS (Broadway Books, 2008), she shares recommendations for her favorite restaurants and food shops, along with delicious tips on how to navigate the City of Light and Good Food.

guest

From time to time, the Window Seat publishes articles and blog posts written by guest authors to give you a fresh perspective on the world of travel.

Comments

Rachel
Reply

Last time I was in Paris I was on a VERY limited budget, yet I was able to eat like a queen–I was completely happy to eat brie and bread sandwiches for almost every meal. Next time I go to Paris, I’ll branch out a bit and bring along these suggestions. Already, I’m looking forward to the sugar puff!

Anne & May
Reply

Why does French food sound so cute?

Chouquettes, tartines…even the name for the cold-cuts place sounds awesome: charcuterie.

I love how you say tourist traps lie in the wait. Ha! Nothing spoils my appetite more than realizing I have accidentally wandered into a tourist trap.

Jessica
Reply

Though I’ve been to Paris more times than I can count, I was always frustrated by its sheer size and seeming impenetrability–until my last visit. I stayed with my friend, a native Parisian, and was thus able to focus entirely on two neighborhoods he knew like the back of his hand: the 17th arrondissement and the Latin Quarter. My stay suddenly blossomed into an extraordinary experience, much of which was colored by local restaurants and charming cafés. Now I can’t wait to get back to Paris and check out all those yummy Montmartre spots. Merci pour les bonnes suggestions, Clotilde!

ventolin lorn parasitize
Reply

To be able to fill leisure intelligently is the last product of civilization, and at present very few people have reached this level.

benicar
Reply

Because we don’t think about future generations, they will never forget us.

Leave a comment

name*

email* (not published)

website